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MARQUISE DE CHOCOLATE

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Eduardo Soler

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Eduardo Soler

La Marquise de chocolate es un distinguido postre de la cocina francesa. Es un clásico de la pastelería donde se percibe un sabor predominante de chocolate pero con una textura que brinda una suavidad increíble al paladar.

 

Es un postre cremoso frío hecho a base de chocolate, mantequilla, azúcar, leche y huevos, también optativamente puede agregarse una copita de licor de naranjas, coñac o grand marnier.

 

Suele servirse con algún fruto ácido ya sea fresco y/o compota de frutos rojos; o con cítricos confitados, ya que el chocolate combina muy bien con esos sabores; y algunas salsas como dulce de leche y/o crema inglesa como puede observarse en la fotografía siguiente. Es un postre muy calórico, tiene un alto contenido de materia grasa, por lo que deben servirse porciones chicas.

 

DSC01566.JPG

 

Hay muchas recetas de marquise en la red, todas con variaciones y claramente diferentes: las hay cocidas en horno, sin cocción, con harina, con crema de leche, gelatina, etc. lo que me lleva a hacer algunas consideraciones acerca de este postre, ya que si bien hay muchas recetas en la red existe poca información acerca del plato en sí.

 

El postre según cuenta la historia se origina como homenaje a la Marquesa de Sévigné Marie de Rabutin-Chantal (1626-1696), una escritora y amante del chocolate que difundió el chocolate entre los cortesanos de la época llegando a fundar un Atelier del chocolate.

 

En cuanto a su preparación, es difícil catalogarlo y de allí vienen las confusiones, ya que es un cremoso de chocolate pero con características únicas: untuoso, frío, sabor equilibrado levemente dulce, muy suave, con predominio del chocolate, una auténtica delicia para el comensal. La textura cremosa no debe ser muy dura o compacta pero tampoco tan blanda que se desarme, debe poder cortarse con la cuchara y deshacerse recién en el paladar.

 

Técnicamente no es un brownie por lo tanto no lleva harina entre sus componentes, la harina le quitará la sedosidad característica y endurecerá la marquise, pero tampoco es espumoso y tan ligero como una mouse por lo tanto no lleva crema batida ni merengue italiano. Si se optara por agregar crema batida habría que bajar proporcionalmente la cantidad de mantequilla y se desarmaría con la temperatura ambiente sin agregar gelatina.

 

En los viejos recetarios franceces la receta de la marquise (y aún hoy se la puede encontrar en algunos escritos en francés) se hacía separando las claras de las yemas, batiendo las yemas con la mitad del azúcar e incorporando este batido al chocolate fundido con la mantequilla,  finalmente se batían las claras a nieve con el resto del azúcar y se las incorporaba a la preparación anterior. Esta técnica si bien para muchas personas continúa en vigencia, tiene el inconveniente de que los huevos se incorporan y quedan crudos en la crema con el consiguiente peligro de la infección por patógenos como la salmonella. Para salvar este inconveniente hoy se hace un procedimiento similar pero con los huevos pasteurizados.

 

Hay varias formas posibles de hacer el postre con los huevos pasteurizados, la técnica más usada es la de un babaroise sin crema ni gelatina, esto es haciendo una crema inglesa y mezclándola con el chocolate fundido junto a la mantequilla, e incorporando las claras en un merengue cocido al vapor. Por lo que el postre se puede hacer con el procedimiento siguiente:

 

  1. Fundir el chocolate junto con la mantequilla y revolver para homogeneizar la mezcla.
  2. Separar las yemas de las claras.
  3. Hacer una crema inglesa con las yemas a 85ºC.
  4. Incorporar la crema inglesa a la mezcla de chocolate y mantequilla.
  5. Batir a nieve las claras cocinándolas al vapor a 60ºC.
  6. Incorporar las claras batidas a nieve a la preparación.
  7. Proceder a moldear y enfriar para solidificar.

 

 


Ingredientes para la Marquise:

250 gr de chocolate cobertura semiamargo, 200 gr de mantequilla, 200 cc de crema inglesa, 20cc de coñac o grand marnier, 3 huevos (separar las 3 yemas para la crema inglesa y las 3 claras para el merengue pasteurizado), frutos rojos c/n.

 

Ingredientes para la Crema Inglesa:

3 yemas, 60gr de azúcar común, 250cc de leche.

 

Ingredientes para el Merengue pasteurizado:

3 claras, 1 cda de azúcar glass.

 

Ingredientes para la Salsa de dulce de leche:

2 cdas de dulce de leche, 1 trocito de mantequilla y leche c/n.

 

Calentar al mínimo el dulce de leche con la manteca hasta fundirla y luego agregar un chorrito de leche hasta obtener una consistencia fluida.

 

Ingredientes para la Compota de frutos rojos:

Almíbar de partes iguales de azúcar y agua: 4 cucharadas de azúcar y 4 cdas de agua.

 

Hacer un almíbar y cuando rompa el hervor tirar los frutos rojos, cocinar 2 minutos, retirar del fuego y enfriar inmediatamente la preparación.

 

PREPARACIÓN DE LA MARQUISE


Paso 1: Fundir el chocolate y la mantequilla 

Poner a fundir el chocolate con la mantequilla en un bowl metálico sobre un baño maría inactivo, esto consiste en poner agua en una olla de tal manera que el nivel no toque el fondo del bowl, luego llevar a hervor y apagar la hornalla. El calor residual del baño será suficiente para fundir el chocolate y la mantequilla sin que se quemen.

 

DSC01484.JPG

 

 

Revolver con una cuchara de madera hasta homogeneizar.

 

Paso 2: Separar las yemas de las claras

 

DSC01475.JPG

 


Paso 3: Prepararar la crema inglesa

El proceso de preparación de una crema inglesa es bastante conocido por lo que aquí se resumen los pasos para su preparación:

 

Separar las yemas de las claras.

Calentar la leche sin que llegue a hervir.

Batir el azúcar con las yemas hasta homogeneizar, este batido se debe hacer inmediatamente ya que las yemas al tomar contacto con el azúcar producen una reacción que coagula la superficie y se formarán grumos casi imposible de deshacer.

Agregar la leche caliente mientras se continúa batiendo.

Pasar la mezcla de la leche con las yemas a una ollita con baño maría normal y calentar revolviendo todo el tiempo hasta alcanzar los 83ºC. Se debe controlar la temperatura muy bien pues no se debe superar los 85ºC ya que se coagularán las yemas y se cortará la crema:

 

DSC01496.JPG

 

 

Enfriar removiendo en baño maría invertido, esto es un baño con agua helada y hielo, a efectos de bajar rápidamente la temperatura.

La crema estará lista cuando se pueda "napar la cuchara" efecto que se consigue al cocinar la mezcla a los 85ºC, esto es que al pasarle el dedo quede marcado el surco como se muestra en la fotografía siguiente:

 

DSC01508.JPG

 

 

Paso 4: Incorporar la crema inglesa a la mezcla de chocolate y mantequilla

Medir 200cc de crema inglesa y agregarlos al bowl del chocolate con la mantequilla.

El resto de la crema inglesa reservarlo para el servicio en la heladera.

 

DSC01513.JPG

 

 

Paso 5: Preparar con las claras un merengue pasteurizado

Poner las claras en un bowl  metálico o de vidrio pirex y batir ligeramente hasta espumar un poco, luego incorporar una cucharada de azúcar glass:

 

DSC01517.JPG

 

 

Llevar a baño maría de vapor (como se observa en la fotografía anterior) y batir con batidora a baja velocidad controlando no sobrepasar la temperatura a 60ºC pues se coagulará la proteína y se inutilizarán las claras, a los 55ºC retirar inmediatamente del fuego ya que la temperatura seguirá subiendo hasta alcanzar los 60ºC.

 

DSC01522.JPG

 

 

Una recomendación en relación al batido a nieve, no se debe sobrebatir las claras pues se secará el merengue perdiendo brillo  por la falta de agua y luego costará la incorporación a la mezcla de chocolate, por lo que que resulta conveniente ir batiendo a bajas revoluciones hasta ir alcanzando la temperatura y aumentar la velocidad recién al final cuando se haya alcanzado los 52ºC.


Paso 6: Agregar el merengue cocido a la mezcla del chocolate con la crema inglesa

 

DSC01527.JPG

 

 

Esta operación se hace en dos etapas: primero se coloca una pequeña porción de merengue sobre la mezcla de chocolate y se agita fuertemente a efectos de homogeneizar densidades, luego en una segunda etapa se incorpora el resto como se ve en la fotografía anterior y se procede con movimientos envolventes de una espátula a mezclar hasta integrar completamente el merengue.

 

Paso 7: Moldeado

Volcar la preparación en un molde de 15cm de diámetro forrado con film, para que se pegue el film al molde se debe mojar previamente el molde. Deberá quedar como se muestra en la fotografía siguiente:

 

DSC01531.JPG

 


Llevar el molde a heladera tapado  por el lapso de 12 horas. Hay que taparlo herméticamente pues el alto contenido de materia grasa lo hace propenso a incorporar los olores de otros alimentos en la  heladera, con lo que se malograría el esfuerzo de la preparación.

También se puede congelar pero antes de servir hay que levantar la temperatura dejándolo por lo menos una hora en la heladera.

 

 

SERVICIO:

 

Para desmoldar la marquise hay que tomar ciertas precauciones ya que es muy delicada y se rompe con facilidad si no se manipula bien.

Una forma práctica para desmoldar es colocar un plato con la base plana de tal manera que la parte de abajo (la parte convexa del plato) ingrese al interior del bowl, esto disminuirá la distancia entre la marquise y la base aminorando el golpe con posibilidad de quebradura.

Con una leve presión de dedos sobre el fondo, el film se desprenderá y caerá por gravedad suavemente sobre la base del plato:

 

DSC01549.JPG

 

En la fotografía siguiente se ve que el desmoldado con esta técnica es exitoso, sin producirse quebraduras en la marquise:

 

DSC01553.JPG

 

Quitar el film y obtendremos la marquise lista para el servicio:

 

DSC01557.JPG

 

 

Para servir se puede cortar con un cuchillo mojado en agua tibia y trasladar con una palita hasta el plato de servicio la porción de marquise.

 

Salsear el plato con la crema inglesa reservada y con salsa de dulce de leche. Sobre las salsas servir la marquise y la compota de frutos rojos como se muestra el plato terminado a continuación, sobre la marquise se puede poner si se desea media frutilla fresca fileteada y la otra mitad sobre la salsa. El servicio debe ser rápido pues si hay mucha temperatura ambiente, el postre se ablandará:

 

DSC01566.JPG

 

En la fotografía siguiente se puede ver la textura del postre:

 

DSC01572.JPG

 

La fotografía siguiente es una macro a efectos de que se pueda apreciar la textura cremosa que debe tener el postre: sin alveolos y sin que se parezca a un brownie o a un bizcocho untuoso:

 

DSC01593.JPG

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      Handicap betting, also known as Asian Handicap, remains one of the most favored types of bets across various sports. Players appreciate it for the balance it brings, giving both the favorite and the underdog a chance to win. Therefore, bookmakers often offer a wide range of options within this category. Therefore, bookmakers also favorably offer a wide range of bets within this category. Today, let's join bet win tips to learn how to play handicap betting in football for maximum effectiveness. Rules of Handicap Betting Although it's one of the most popular bet types, let's review the rules for those new to sports betting. Handicap betting in football can be understood simply as one of the over/under bets comparing the goal difference between the favorite and the underdog with the bookmaker's odds. If the goal difference is higher than the bookmaker's figure, the favorite wins the bet. Conversely, if it's lower, the underdog wins the bet. Example of Handicap Betting in the Vietnam vs Indonesia Match Let's take the example of an Asian Handicap bet from the recent World Cup qualifier match between Vietnam and Indonesia. Vietnam is considered significantly stronger than Indonesia at the moment, so the team is labeled as the favorite by the sports bookmaker. In this scenario, Vietnam's name would be highlighted in red, indicating the favorite for this match. In the black box are the odds provided by the bookmaker for the handicap bet. There are two options for players to choose from: Vietnam -1 to -1.5 and Vietnam -1.5. The figures on the right side of the handicap represent the payout odds for each team if they win. Specifically, in the -1.5 handicap, if Vietnam wins, you would receive a payout of 2.09 times your initial bet, whereas for Indonesia, it would be 1.72. Types of Handicap Betting in Football Now that we understand the rules, let's delve into the specific types of handicap bets. 1. Handicap 0 – Draw No Bet When the handicap figure presented by the australia bookmaker is 0, and neither team is highlighted in red, it's called a 0 handicap, or a draw no bet. There are instances when it's challenging to determine the stronger team in a match. Therefore, in matches where the teams are evenly matched, a 0 handicap, meaning neither team has an advantage, is common. Example: Wales vs Switzerland Match Let's consider another recent example, the match between Wales and Switzerland in Euro 2020. In this match, the bookmaker set a 0 handicap, and as shown in the image, neither team is highlighted in red. If Wales wins, players who bet on them will receive a payout of 2.53 times their initial bet. For instance, if you bet 100 points on Wales and they win, you would receive 253 points. On the other hand, if Switzerland wins, players would only receive a payout of 1.53 times their initial bet. If the match ends in a draw, known as a draw no bet, players get their initial bet back regardless of which team they bet on. Calculating Winnings/Losses for Half Handicaps When players win or lose half a handicap, calculating the payout becomes slightly more complicated than winning/losing a full handicap. In this type of bet, when players lose, they only lose half of their bet, and when they win, they only win half of the bet. For example, if a player bets 100 points and loses half a bet, they will lose half of their bet. If they win half a bet, they will only win half of their bet.  
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